Regarding the revs, (all things considered-supporting tune, turbo, engine, etc.) more revs=more horsepower. I rev it that high because the engine was built for it and it is still pulling good! Heck, I revved this same engine to a little over 10k rpms when I had it bolted to the powerglide in the Starion. All that said, the stock head on these cars is GREAT! The stock redline will get you into the 11s easy.

See ya!

I appreciate all the advice. Speaking of staring at a car on jackstands, that’s ALL I did with my first DSM. It was very depressing. Looking back, the goal I had in mind was unrealistic. But hey, I try to think there’s some good in most situations….it was a huge learning experience.

I saw in one of your videos your car revs to 9k….that’s nuts haha. Out of curiousity, what’s the reason for that? Does the FP Red turbo keep making power throughout such a high rpm range? I’d imagine with your HKS cams you also have stiffer springs?
If you don’t mind me asking, what modifications do you have done to the head?

Again, thanks for the advice and help, and sorry for so many questions

Cool, I was thinking you were new to all of this stuff. Glad to hear that you aren’t, it can be kinda daunting, especially when you see so many folks having (what seems like) easy performance success on the forums. It sounds like you’re on the right track for sure. Here’s my advice, for what it’s worth, in no particular order:

-Don’t reinvent the wheel- look at what someone else has done successfully in the most simple fashion (that matches your goals) and do that exact same thing. This will save you tons of time, money and allow you to drive and enjoy your car vs. staring at it on jackstands.

-Create a plan. Save it in a spreadsheet. Track your spending, progress, performance goals, etc. in there. This will keep your project from getting out of hand. A good plan will include basic maintenance costs too.

-Don’t go too big on any certain part or parts. You don’t need a giant turbo, giant cams, speed density, etc. to run 11s reliable with great drivability. Keep it simple with a keen eye on keeping the car enjoyable.

I guess I could go on, but this is my best advice. Also, definitely go for the water/alcohol/methanol injection! It is a must-have on a turbo car. E85 is nice, but the cost to upgrade is high, the future of it is uncertain and is absolutely unnecessary to run 11s. Get a good kit from Coolingmist or one of the other vendors. It’ll be easier than piecing together a kit.

Good luck and keep me posted!

Yeah, I’ve been lurking dsmtuners for YEARS. Got my first dsm a few years back, never got the thing running though and I sold it. I have a 1995 Talon tsi AWD now, and I’m looking to create some more power. My goal in about a year or so is (maybe) an 11 second daily driven car. I favorited your Talon page because I aspire to have a car that performs like yours! I’ve been looking at the FP Green turbo, and I’ll be picking up ECMLink v3 soon!

I saw your build and it looks good. Do you have any advice for getting a car into the 11s?

Thanks for any and all help. I’ve been doing so much reading lately and trying to absorb everything like a sponge, lol..

Thank you! I’d be happy to answer some questions. My best advice is to head to the DSMForums and read all of the FAQs. That’ll get you familiar with your new car and probably will answer most all of your questions too. Good luck with it!

-Tom

The MAP sensor allows the AFC to use a boost reference for tuning instead of a variable throttle position sensor, which the Miata is lacking from the factory. Whether you’re running a turbo or not, you’ll need some sort of variable TPS for the AFC to work. Automatic transmission Miatas come with a variable TPS ( I believe) so you could swap one of those in place of the stock 5 speed (non variable) TPS.

Good luck!

-Tom

I have intake and exhaust mods

Do I need a map sensor or is this only for turbo setups?

Just wanna sort out the flat spots and make sure it’s running as best as it can be mate, thank you