Taming the dragon
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
I finally made it to the world famous "Tail of the Dragon" in the turbo Miata! Click here to see the pictures and read the story
Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 6:10 AM,
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Turbo Miata Dyno Test
Friday, June 13, 2008
Well I finally made it to the dyno! It was hot as heck (92 degrees inside the shop) but the car made a peak of 222.7hp and 247.0 ft-lbs corrected on 10psi and 93 octane gas. For whatever reason, the dyno operator couldn't get a great rpm connection, so the graph is pretty choppy.
Overall, I'm pretty darn pleased given how simple this setup is. I've been driving it every day and it idles and runs exactly like a stock Miata until you put your foot into it. The icing on the cake is the fuel economy. I've gotten no less than 33 mpg on my last four tanks of gas! Continue Reading→
posted by Tom T. @ 3:09 PM,
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New Turbo Miata website
Friday, June 6, 2008
I've finished up the website for my turbocharged 1992 Mazda Miata. It includes a story about how this car and I crossed paths, a list of modifications, videos of the car in action, photos, project updates and "how-tos". I'll be adding much more to the site, so be sure to check back often.
Click here to check it out! Continue Reading→
posted by Tom T. @ 5:26 AM,
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The Sleeper Files: 1929 Ford Model A (with video)
Friday, February 1, 2008
I'd like to introduce a new ongoing segment here on the TurboBlog, and it's called "The Sleeper Files!" Anyone that knows me knows that I love nothing more than a car that looks unassuming, but packs a big performance punch. What's more fun than blowing your competitor's doors off after they completely underestimate you?
This week, we're featuring what looks to be a stock, restored, antique 1929 Ford Model A. This one is for the true sleeper aficionados, as the owner has gone to extreme lengths to keep the stock looks while adding lots of serious modifications.
Click to view the full article on HotRod.com
Click here to visit the car builders website for photos galore.
Of course I must say, only one thing would make it better...a turbo!
Labels: sleepers
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posted by Tom T. @ 7:30 AM,
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Check out my videos on YouTube
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
I've posted some more of my videos on my YouTube channel.
Click here to watch!
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posted by Tom T. @ 3:38 PM,
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Winter mods for the TurboBlog. First up: RSS Feeds!
Monday, January 28, 2008
There are a variety of mods and enhancements coming to the TurboBlog! Soon you'll see many more posts coming from yours truly, better site organization and overall, lots of cool stuff to see. First up on the mod list is a little something I've invented called "RSS", which will surely revolutionalize the interwebs. For those who haven't used RSS, It's this tool that allows you to get updates on this site in your Google Reader or iGoogle Homepage, MyYahoo Homepage, Bloglines or other RSS reader of your choice. How cool is that? Click the logo below to signup. It's easy!
posted by Tom T. @ 10:58 AM,
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1991 Talon: 0-100mph in 7.43 seconds (with video)
Monday, October 29, 2007
So, what does my old 1991 Talon Tsi AWD Turbo have in common with the 2008 Corvette ZO6, 2008 Dodge Viper, 2008 Porsche 911 GT3 RS, 2008 Audi R8 and the 2007 Mustang Shelby GT 500? It's quicker than all of them from 0 to 100mph! For those that may think I'm smoking something, I've compiled all of the specs from those vehicles at the bottom of this post.
Last weekend I took the old girl back to the local 1/8 mile dragstrip to have a
little fun before winter sets in and to see if I could improve on my previous best 1/8 mile ET and MPH. I wasn't expecting a great ET, as I'm still babying it off the line to preserve the stock 3 bolt rear differential and 100% stock transmission, but I did nail a 100mph trap speed! Also, with some basic math, my 0-60mph time is an estimated 2.66 seconds. Fun!
Here's a picture of the timeslip, a few pictures from the track, and an in-car video of the run prior to the 7.43 run, which was a 7.50 at 100mph.
~~~~~~~0 to 100mph figures from the cars I mentioned above~~~~~~
All data compiled from Car and Driver Magazine
2008 Chevrolet Corvette Zo6
Price: $70,000
0-100mph: 7.7 seconds
Horsepower: 505
Curb Weight: 3198lbs
2008 Dodge Viper SRT10
Price: $86,000
0-100mph: 7.6 seconds
Horsepower: 600
Curb Weight: 3455lbs
2008 Porsche 911 GT3 RS
Price: $143,995
0-100mph: 9.3 seconds
Horsepower: 415
Curb Weight: 3180 lbs
2008 Audi R8
Price: $125,000
0-100mph: 10.1 seconds
Horsepower: 420
Curb Weight: 3583 lbs
2007 Ford Shelby GT500
Price: $50,000
0-100mph: 10.3 seconds
Horsepower: 500
Curb Weight: 3896 lbs
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
Price: El cheapo
0-100mph: 7.43 seconds
Horsepower: 500-520 (estimate)
3150 lbs (estimated w/o driver)
Labels: talon
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posted by Tom T. @ 10:11 AM,
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1990-1994 Mazda Miata MX-5 Apexi Super AFC Install Guide
Saturday, October 6, 2007
This guide is to help you install an Apexi S-AFC into your 1990-1994 Miata. This guide can be used for both naturally aspirated and turbo cars.
STEP 0: What does the Apexi S-AFC do?
The Air Flow Converter takes the pulse (frequency) from the Mass Air Flow meter and either speeds it up or slows it down at different RPM points to make the ECU run the injectors either richer or leaner. All by itself, (as in N/A cars) it can only give you a little more bottom end power by leaning out the mix some. If you try to richen the top end you will just hit 100% fuel injector pulse sooner.
The best use for the AFC is to install larger injectors (runs richer) and then adjust the AFC leaner to compensate.
Installation is simple, and only requires installing a simple MAP sensor underhood and tapping into 4 wires and cutting one to intercept the air flow signal at the ECU.
There are 8 RPM adjusting points to adjust the air flow + /- 50%. These points are user defined within a 1,000 RPM band so that you can get finer control in certain areas if you need it. The rpm points come pre set at every thousand rpm from 1,000 to 8,000. The graph is highlighted for the rpm range you are setting.
The Super AFC also allows for two different maps according to load. It makes the load calculation based on the Throttle Position Sensor. You choose what is high and what is low.
STEP 1: Wiring the AFC
The chart below is from the Apexi S-AFC wiring guide. It tells us that for the 90-94 Miata, we'll use wiring diagram Z5-c. Ignore "sensor type" for now, we'll cover that later
As mentioned above, the AFC is wired into your ECU and MAP sensor. The MAP sensor is required since the Miata does not have a linear throttle position sensor as with many other vehicles. Due to this, we must use a MAP sensor for the throttle input signal on the AFC. This is actually a benefit, since it allows for more accurate load based fuel control. We'll cover the MAP sensor install later.
After disconnecting the battery, start with your ECU wiring. The diagrams below tell you which wires to tap in the stock ECU harness and the proper way to tap into them.
ECU Wiring Diagram
AFC Red wire: connect to "1G Power"
AFC Green wire: connect to "RPM Signal"
AFC Brown Wire: connect to ground (closer to the ecu: see diagram below)
AFC Black wire: connect to ground (1cm further away from brown wire: see diagram below)
AFC Yellow wire: connect to airflow signal output (to ecu)
AFC White wire: connect to airflow signal input
AFC Gray wire: connect to throttle signal (To MAP sensor signal wire)
STEP 2: Installing and Wiring the MAP sensor
A manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) is connected to the intake manifold to monitor intake vacuum (and boost). It changes voltage or frequency as manifold pressure changes. Since the Miata does note have a true linear throttle position sensor for the S-AFC to use, We'll instead use a MAP sensor. There are many different MAP sensors out there, and most all can be used. For turbo cars, what you need is one that registers high enough for the boost levels you plan to run.
GM 3Bar MAP Sensor
The GM sensor is a popular choice because it is widely available new and used. This is the sensor that I chose. The instructions below are for the GM 3 bar, but most any MAP sensor will be wired in a similar fashion.
When installing your MAP sensor, find a good location and install "above" the throttle body (high on the firewall is a good spot) and use a clean vacuum/boost source from the intake manifold to connect to the vacuum input on the MAP sensor. Run the wires carefully away from heat and moving parts.
If using the GM 3 bar, you'll need a plug for it. You can get these used off of GM vehicles, or they are available from many online performance shops. The GM MAP is wired according to the illustration above and the corresponding list below.
A: Ground
B: Sensor Signal To AFC Throttle signal wire (Gray) This wire will need to be passed through the firewall into the ECU area where the AFC harness is located. There is a little pass-through on the passenger side firewall on Miatas that is perfect for this.
C: 5V power in (Finding a good 5V signal is key. On my Miata, I tapped into a AFM wire. There are others in the engine compartment, just be sure to use a simple multimeter to test)
Picture of the sensor installed on my 1992 Miata
STEP 3: S-AFC Setup!
Now that you're all wired up, it's time to reconnect your battery and adjust your S-AFC preferences and settings. If you bought your S-AFC used, or borrowed it from another car, it will have a memory of that car's settings. First off, follow the instructions in the owner's manual linked below and "Initialize it" before getting started. This is especially important when using a MAP sensor, because the AFC actually "learns" the voltage of the sensor you choose.
One of the early menu settings that you'll adjust is "Sensor Type" You'll use the setting "FLAP" and "08 08" ("flap" refers to the Miata AFM which is a flap type sensor, the "8" is simply a setting in that same menu in the AFC.) See pages 24 and 27 in the manual below for instructions on how to set this.
Apexi S-AFC Intstruction Manual: Right click and save (PDF)
Next is setting up your "low" and "high" throttle points
When using a MAP sensor, you set your low throttle point at full idle vacuum and the high throttle point a little above your maximum boost pressure.
Since the output of the pressure sensor will read in "throttle percent", you need to do some testing first. First, you can turn the key to "ON" without starting the car. Now you can record what throttle percent is 0 psig.
Start the car and you can record what throttle percent is full idle vacuum. How you get the throttle percent at full boost depends on your car. If your car is already tuned right [without the S-AFC], you can boost and record throttle percent. Be careful whenever you are driving and trying to read the display. Its best to have a passenger do the reading for you. Keep a pad of paper to write it all down on. The throttle percents should vary linearly between the data points.
Another method is to pressurize the sensor. You can tee the sensor together with a boost gauge. Use the boost gauge to read what pressure you are giving the sensor. A bike tire pump hooked in the vacuum line can be used to simulate boost.
Try to run the car rich and then lean things out slowly. A wideband o2 sensor is highly recommended. There are other sites with good tuning methods for getting the right settings on your S-AFC. Here is an example: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm
Good luck and enjoy!
This guide is to be used for information purposes only. Thanks to http://www.RoadRaceEngineering.com for some of the AFC explanations and details used above.
Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 3:40 PM,
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Mitsubishi Evolution X: I want one.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
I want one. That is all.
Mitsubishi Introduces All-new 2008 Lancer Evolution With Turbo/Intercooled Engine, Super-all Wheel Control And Available 6-Speed Automated Manual Transmission
October 1, 2007 -- Cypress, Calif. -- Mitsubishi Motors is introducing the 2008 Lancer Evolution, the newest and most sophisticated version of the legendary high-performance model series that began 16 years ago.
While remaining true to the core values that have made the Lancer Evolution synonymous with thrilling performance, the next-generation model offers all-around capability and user technology that distinguish the world's best performance models.
While remaining true to the core values that have made the Lancer Evolution synonymous with thrilling performance, the next-generation model offers all-around capability and user technology that distinguish the world's best performance models.
The strikingly styled 2008 Lancer Evolution showcases new performance and handling technology, including an all-new 295-hp (est.) 2.0-liter turbocharged/intercooled engine and the Super-All Wheel Control (S-AWC) dynamic handling system. S-AWC offers an extraordinary level of control at each wheel, going well beyond the capabilities of other all-wheel drive systems.
Two Lancer Evolution models will be offered in the U.S. market for 2008: the GSR with a new 5-speed manual transmission and the Lancer Evolution MR with a new 6-speed Twin-Clutch Sportronic Shift Transmission (TC-SST), a new-generation automated manual transmission. The MR model is also equipped exclusively with Bilstein shock absorbers and Eibach springs, two-piece brake rotors for better heat dissipation, BBS forged-alloy wheels, HID headlamps and additional interior features. Significantly, the newest Lancer Evolution will have less differentiation from market to market than the previous generations.
"The high-performance engine, sports car handling dynamics and striking design of the 2008 Lancer Evolution will appeal to enthusiasts worldwide - for those who desire a daily driver with street credentials as well as those planning weekend track action," said Dan Kuhnert, vice president for marketing and sales, Mitsubishi Motors North America.
Labels: evolution
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posted by Tom T. @ 10:47 AM,
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1992 Miata: Turbo Build vol. 1
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
I realize that this post is a little backwards, since I've already posted photos and videos of the end result. Call this a "flashback" :-)After driving my Miata around for awhile, it didn't take long for me to realize that I needed more power. I'm pretty sure this realization occurred at the exact moment that a new Toyota Camry pulled buslengths on me from a stoplight. This would never happen again. I will never own a car that gets beat up that bad by a Camry of all things.
I had been doing tons of research on turbo Miatas, preparing for the day that I would finally take the leap. After much deliberation, I decided to pick up a Greddy turbo kit, as seen above. The kit is very affordable, but as you can see, pretty basic out of the box. In fact it lacks an intercooler, blow off valve, etc. So "while I was in there" I decided to do a few upgrades that would allow me to turn up the horsepower knob later on.
First step was removing the header that the previous owner installed. It was welded directly to the exhaust system, which gave me a pretty good excuse to build an all-new exhaust system for the car. You can also see the Greddy oil feed line for the turbo. Gotta love a block that already has a port for this!
Here's a shot of that old header that I ripped off. How much horsepower can these things really make? Can't be more than a couple on an otherwise stock engine.
The Greddy kit uses a Mitsubishi 15g turbo. This was a big selling point of the kit given the great success I've had with Mitsubishi turbochargers on DSMs. this little sucker can support 250+ horsepower.
Progress! Here the turbo is mounted to the stout Greddy manifold. I clocked the turbo to allow for the custom piping that I would create later. Also, I ditched the Greddy oil drain line setup (that drains back into the block, on the other side of the motor) in favor of a shorter route directly into the oil pan. This required drilling and tapping the oil pan, but was done on the car with no drama.
The downpipe that comes with the kit was made to bolt to the puny stock exhaust, and since the original owner modified it, I decided to modify the downpipe to bolt up to a 2.5" exhaust. Here's a shot of the downpipe in progress. I will most likely take another shot at this someday, and fabricate it in full 2.5" piping with its own divorced wastegate pipe.
Here's a shot of the finished end of the downpipe, mounted on the car. Hard to see from the picture, but the fit is nice, with plenty of room all around.
Here are some of the parts used to make the 2.5" exhaust. The pipe on the left is part of the stock exhaust from my old Evo. I chose the Magnaflow muffler since I've been so happy with the sounds that came from the Talon and Mirage exhaust systems I built using the same style muffler.
I really enjoy welding. I've had my Lincoln welder for a few years now, and always look forward to any project that requires its use. In fact, I've been known to weld things to other things just for giggles.
Here's the exhaust all finished and ready for its coat of paint. It uses all of the stock hanger positions.
And here's the end result in my favorite color, high heat low gloss black. This paint also has ceramic in it and I've found it to be pretty durable stuff.
Here's the finished product! The removable rear suspension brace makes life MUCH easier. Thank you Mazda engineer, I owe you one. Removing that brace allows you to install/remove the exhaust as one part!
No flashy exhaust tip here! Just a chunk of 2.5" pipe sticking out.
More to come! Stay tuned!Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 5:45 AM,
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1992 Miata: Acceleration Run Video
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
I've been driving the wheels off of this thing lately. The "fun to drive" quotient has gone up 150% when compared to the non-turbo days. I knew I was in for a surprise, but the turbo (even at these low boost levels) has completely transformed this car.
In this video, boost is set at the factory Greddy preset of 5 psi. I can't imagine how much fun 10 or 15 psi will be!
Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 5:47 AM,
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Turbo Miata!
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Here's a teaser :-) More to come...
Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 6:36 AM,
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Change is good! 1992 Mazda Miata
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
And now for something completely different...
I distinctly remember the first time I read an article about the all new 1990 Mazda Miata. In fact, I still have the issue of Car and Driver! I was intrigued by the total package, but most impressed with how a new car, built in Japan, could evoke comparisons to some of the greatest roadsters ever built. As the years went by, I read of more and more praise by the magazine writers. This has fostered a distant appreciation for Miatas and I've always been "sorta" looking for a 1990-1993 model.
When spring rolled around this year, I felt like it was time to try something completely new and different with the 'ole car hobby. I wanted a lightweight, reliable sports car that wouldn't break the bank and one car fit the bill more than any other. The Mazda Miata.
I began seriously searching a few months ago, but kept finding the same stuff. "Nice" cars, but with some major quirk that would turn me away. Just when I was starting to lose faith I came across a gem! I called immediately, went to see it later that evening, and picked it up a couple days later. I've never seen myself as a yellow car guy, but for some reason, it just looks right on a Miata. That and the fact that this was a rare beast with the factory hardtop. Only 1,519 were made in Sunburst Yellow and of that 519 wore factory hardtops.
This particular car was owned by a lady who had pampered it from day one. She was a great owner, keeping track of all the maintenance and even threw in the stock wheels/tires, stereo, car cover, tonneau cover and a few other parts. The car currently has a littler over 73,000 miles, is in superb condition inside and out.
I don't have any immediate plans for it, other than putting the top down and enjoying finally owning a Miata after all of these years!
Labels: miata
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posted by Tom T. @ 8:39 PM,
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1991 Talon Track Visit: New Best!
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
The last time I took the Talon out to the track was way back in February. Since then, I haven't changed a single thing on the car, other than the oil, filter and a fresh set of NGK spark plugs. I have been driving the heck out of it, and it's turned out to be a great commuter car with power to spare, good handling, an ipod-friendly stereo and ice-cold air conditioning. It's also averaging 27 mpg with a 70/30 mix of highway/city driving, so overall, I'm very pleased.
This visit to the track was an act of impulse, as I needed to blow off some steam on Friday after a long week of work, and a little drag racing was an inexpensive, legal way to do so.
Friday night's test & tune sessions are mainly attended by full-on race cars with a few street cars mixed in. I was one of those street cars, and the only 4 cylinder in the whole place. As you could imagine, I felt a little out of place. I had heard that the surface of this track had been smoothed and re-paved, so I was excited to try it out.
As the trailers filled with expensive toys filed in, a few cars started making passes and I decided to head to the lanes. As I got closer to my turn, I noticed that the track folks had put up some cones that forced everyone to drive through the water box. Good for the RWD race cars, bad for me! The lanes were moving fast, so I quickly hopped out of the car and spoke with the official, who graciously moved the cones (slightly) to allow me to bypass the burnout box.
As I staged, I brought the revs way up and quickly feathered the clutch and floored the gas. I hardly ever launch like this on the street and it definitely caught me off guard. The car shot off the line and almost instantly I heard a couple pops of the 10,000 rpm rev limiter. After this quick misstep, I banged second and then rode out third through the traps. The guy at the booth handed me my slip and I was pleased to see a 7.6 second run at 95.5 mph, even with my lazy 1-2 shift. This would be my best 60 foot of the day, a 1.78. My second run was my best E.T and MPH (see the slip below) but I not my best launch or 60 foot. I was lined up with a race car on this run and literally could not hear myself think over that beast's thumping v8.
After my third run being very similar to my second, the lanes were getting full and I decided to head home. According to my datalogs, my 680cc injectors are totally overworked. I've got a set of 850s waiting to go in, which should allow me to run more boost and get a few more horses on 93 octane.
Thanks for reading and stay tuned!
The Talon Looks a little out of place here, I think. Some nice, fast cars were in attendance.
Here's a shot of the newly re-surfaced track. Smooooth!
This fascinated me. I applaud the cost-saving tactic employed here.
This Ford wanted to race me from a "dig." Hardy, Har.
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posted by Tom T. @ 6:26 PM,
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